2 wheels around the NC500 and more! September 2016

It's Friday the 16th September. I get up and observe the weather forecast as I eat my breakfast before heading to work. The weekend forecast is particularly good and I start to get ideas... ideas I've had for some time... ideas I've prepared for... ideas I knew would p*** off my partner.

I arrive at work around 7am with the same thoughts and before I know, its brunch time. I decide to check the weather forecast again for further updates and I see an opportunity...

I cant shake off those thoughts and it takes me a further few minutes to decide I was taking the rest of the day off as well as the Monday, to head off on my own, around Scotland on 2 wheels.

This turned out to be one of my most epic journeys around Scotland testing me both mentally and physically. My journey was always going to be risky going solo and even more so because I was still recovering from a serious motorcycle accident which resulted in a fractured ankle and dislocated shoulder earlier in the year. This only added to my partners worries but my mind was made.

On this trip I was rewarded with some of the most breath taking scenery and roads in the UK and created some unforgettable memories.

Facts & figures:

Bike: VFR800A VTEC
Luggage: 1 large topbox, 1 medium sized rucksack, tent & sleeping bag held with bungee nets
Days: 4
Nights: 3
Miles: 1012
Route: http://www.rac.co.uk/route-planner/mobile/l/prpb/
Incidents/ near misses: At least 4. 1 motorist, 1 fault of my own & 2 deer.
Midges: the odd few in the cairngorms, none elsewhere on my trip.

Fuel cost per litre: average £1.15
Total fuel costs: £122.50 = 12p per mile / approx. 38mpg
Campsite fees: £29.50
Food & drink: £42.00
Other costs: £8.00
Total cost of trip: £202


The numbers below are from memory and are approx. Riding time includes some stops in between.

Day 1 - 140 miles covered, 4 hours riding
Day 2 - 265 miles covered, 6 hours riding
Day 3 - 280 miles covered, 7.5 hours riding
Day 4 - 327 miles covered, 8.5 hours riding

Total : 1012 miles

Campsites: click on the links to see sites.

Aviemore - glenmore-campsite (C on map)

At £14 for 1 person & 1 bike. This was the most outrageous price I paid for a site that offered very little more than a good shower. There is however a decent pub within staggering distance and the visitor centre across the road offers free 24hr Wi-Fi. Mobile signal is very poor in the area and having this access to this Wifi was perfect, allowing me to communicate with the outside world.

Durness - sangosands (E on map)

At £8 for the night, this site offered far more than most sites I've been on with all the facilities you might need / want. I wish there were more sites like this around the country. If the weather is great then your in for a treat as the location, beaches, pub/ restaurant, Smoo cave won't disappoint!

Isle of Skye - sligachan campsite (south east of J on map)


At £7.50 for the night, this was great value but wasn't quite the same standard as the Glenmore site. Half the price though! This also has a great pub/ restaurant across the road. Situated on the centre of the Isle of Skye its great for taking any direction covering all the hot spots.


Day 1


Dunfermline - Perth - Blairgowrie - Glenshee - Tomintoul - Nethybridge - Aviemore - Glenmore

Set off at 15.30pm that Friday afternoon and conditions were amazing. My journey almost came to an abrupt end just 50 miles into my trip when a woman reversed into me in Blairgowie, luckily only damaging my front mudguard. This, fortunately didn't prevent me from continuing on my journey and added to my experience. I then went on to have another incident in Glenmore, where I slipped parking up on loose ground. I sadly had no choice but to softly drop the bike. Thankfully two guys were around to assist me getting it back up. By the end of day one and after having both incidents within the first 140 miles of my trip I felt rather deflated and hesitant to continue my journey North.


Spittal of Glenshee



Glenshee




Loch Morlich, Glenmore, Aviemore





One of my favourite images taken on my trip (Loch Morlich)



Day 2

Glenmore - Inverness - John O Groats - Thurso - Tongue - Durness

I woke refreshed and determined to continue after the previous days events. The suns warmth and the sight of dry tarmac brought a smile to my face. I had my first and only encounter of a mobile speed camera van on my trip just north of Inverness. I stopped in John O Groats for the 2nd time in my lifetime and was pleased the sun was out on that occasion. I continued to make good progress towards Tongue and ended my journey for the day at Durness, my favourite mainland location in Scotland after a previous visit a few years earlier. This place did not fail to impress again with its stunning scenery, white sandy beaches, campsite & Smoo cave. I sat on a rock drinking a beer on Sango Sands beach that evening and reflected on my day. It was there, I continued to soak up the environment around me for some time. During that time I thought to myself, is this what euphoria feels like?


Cairngorm Mountain base station



John O Groats




Tongue



En route to Durness





Smoo Cave - Durness




Sango Sands - Durness





Day 3


Durness - Ullapool - Gairloch - Applecross - Isle of Skye

I woke up to a stunning sunrise and hit the road early as the forecast predicted some showers later in the day. The only traffic at 8am were sheep, Highland cows and the odd suicidal deer all the way to Ullapool. I was surprised by the 21 degrees heat in Ullapool at this time of year and my Honda ended up in the middle of a Triumph bike rally on the harbour. Looking across the water from the harbour I could tell the rain was approaching and pressed on. I soon came face to face with it on my route to Applecross. This place always had me curious as to why it was so popular and I initially could not understand why. The countless miles of single track road in light rain wasn't enjoyable. The route was almost treacherous on the Applecross pass with hairpin bends, steep angles and only 10m visibility in front at times. I was very relieved to descend from the pass safely and get below cloud level. I do hope to return to the Applecross pass in better weather.

visit these google map links to see just how impressive this pass is!! This is a must see!!

Link: Applecross Pass road
Link: Applecross Pass Viewpoint

My journey remained damp all the way to my next resting place on the Isle of Skye! 


En route to Ullapool



Kylesku Bridge


Ardvreck Castle





Ullapool Harbour





En route to Applecross

















Applecross


Bealach na Ba also know as the Applecross Pass














En route to Isle of Skye




Portree - Isle of Skye



Day 4


Isle of Skye - Fort William - Glencoe - Tyndrum - Loch Earn - Crieff - Dunfermline

Waking up my thoughts turned to the journey home but as the cloud lifted, I was optimistic the route home would be pleasant. I had a few other ideas in mind before leaving this beautiful Isle though. I decided I would ride around the whole of this isle on only the trunk roads and stop by some of Skye's famous attractions. I soon had sight of the old man of Storr from the roadside and me being me, somewhat daft, decided I would walk to it. This was a very misleading walk. It looked close enough to the roadside that I decided to walk to it in my full bike gear and rucksack. Although a little difficult, it was well worth it and the pictures I took don't do it justice! I continued my journey around skye stopping at the impressive Kilt Rock waterfall and Dunvegan Castle before heading home.

After my hike earlier in the day I began to struggle physically by the time I reached Fort William and found it increasing difficult to operate the controls of my bike and even sit down. With only 3 and a half daylight hours left I pressed on but had to stop and stretch my legs frequently usually whilst filling up my thirsty bike. Before I knew it I was on a biking route I knew all too well and stopped at one of my favourite spots in St Fillans. There, I managed to get a great image of the sun setting. From here I was counting down the miles to home but each and every one of them was getting more and more difficult. I was within 5 miles of home and I could have easily parked up the bike and lay down I was that tired and aching. I had an overwhelming feeling of relief parking up in my garage but was also saddened my trip had come to an end.

Sligachan campsite - Isle of Skye



Views from the foot of Old man of Storr







Kilt Rock


En route to Fort William

Eilean Donan Castle


Glencoe



Loch Earn - St Fillans






I was extremely lucky to walk away from my bike accident earlier in the year and be able to do this trip I've dreamed of doing for some time. I was also extremely lucky to get such great weather and temperatures for the time of year. I did do this trip on a whim based on my current fitness and on the weather forecast and left at short notice. I also wouldn't hesitate to do this again. If you are planning a trip like this I hope you are just as fortunate.

What I will say is don't be afraid to do it solo like me. There are dozens of like minded people on this route and there are tools that can prepare you for every eventuality.


There are many misconceptions about this route. The route was not overly populated at this time of year like many might think. Being on two wheels makes it so easy as there are very few occasions where you'll need to stop in passing places on the sections of single track road. There are also many fuel stops for thirsty bikes like mines, some of which are unmanned and only accept card payments. Be cautious though as these can be out of fuel! Midges are dying out in September so don't be put off by them either. Coastal breezes will also keep them away.

Scotland is renowned for it beauty and my pictures speak volumes but don't do it any justice! Scotland is best seen from your own eyes.


I hope you found this blog of interest and that it inspires and encourages you to do something similar! Go somewhere new, go explore and go support small businesses and areas!



Feel free to comment,  follow me here or on Instagram or just check out some of my favourite photos taken on previous trips. https://www.instagram.com/8i11y/

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2 comments:

  1. Very interesting, well written and inspiring blog. Photos too are a country mile better than the bog standard FB offerings posted by most (although I guess added motorcycles are always going to improve photos). Looking forward to giving it a go next month.

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  2. Hello buddy it’s Steve from the vfr group. This is awesome and extremely useful to me for sure. You’ve covered everything I need to know so thank you for sending me the link to have a good read and share your experiences with me. My mind is made up now just after reading your post alone and I’m going to get up there this year. Many thanks my friend and I wish you safe riding for the future

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